Sweet baby j, this sandwich is good.
We could write something here about our childhood, or how our kids did something that made us realize something profound, or how I’ve gained 15 pounds in 16 weeks (true).
Or we could just tell you about the new sandwich we crave deep in our bones.
(And if you make a comment about my weight gain and connect it to this sandwich, I’ll probably bring my pasty white gut to your house for a little chit chat.)
A friend was in town a few weeks ago, attending a conference at the Four Seasons here in Atlanta. She wanted to meet for dinner and catch up.
Would I mind coming to the Four Seasons for dinner? Her treat.
I’ll be right there.
I’m not sure what I expected of the Four Seasons, but it wasn’t what I got. What awaited us on our table was a jar of pickled okra.
That’s a sure sign of a fine establishment.
Chef Rober Gerstenecker at Park 75, the restaurant inside the Four Seasons, is doing some very special bits of perfection. At the top of the list, even better than the pickled okra, was a grilled pimento cheese and short rib sandwich.
Moving to the South, we’ve had to reckon with pimento cheese. A far cry from the terrifying slop I dished out at the Indiana grocery store deli I worked in during high school. Pimento cheese has integrity and depth and a sliver of something special.
Short ribs are never a wrong answer in our lives, but Chef Gerstenecker took these in a different direction than our favorite Mario Batali recipe. These short ribs, shredded, were tangy and bright, a fine companion to the weighty pimento cheese.
Layered between two slices of what I’m going to say was brioche, but under all the golden butter crust, it’s impossible to know and entirely irrelevant.
One bite. I knew I had to recreate it.
I started with Hugh Acheson’s pimento cheese. Aged white cheddar and a quick swap of sweet pimenton with my favorite spicy/smoky version.
Then on to the short ribs. I wasn’t sure exactly how to get where Chef Gerstenecker took me. I started with Mario Batali, giving myself two hours while the ribs cooked to figure out what I was going to do.
Straight barbecue sauce seemed profane here. The Park 75 sandwich was bright and happy with a spicy hit.
Having just been to Buford Highway Farmers Market to pick up the short ribs, I had wandered through the aisles grabbing random items. For another meal I had planned, I had grabbed some Korean barbecue sauce (OK, I like to add a small teaspoon to bad ramen). This was exactly what I wanted for the ribs. Spicier than the original, it was sweet and tangy if not quite as happy.
The Recipes. Sort of.
I didn’t adapt these recipes. I mashed them together. Adding Korean barbecue to a Mario Batali masterpiece? That isn’t a recipe, and it’s certainly not appropriate to copy and paste the recipes from other sources. Go check them out, and then keep our little tips in mind:
Here are the additional things you need to make this sandwich:
- For the pimento cheese, we used hot smoked paprika. I suppose Hugh Acheson knows what he is doing, so you’ll probably be fine if you use his paprika choice. Probably.
- For the short ribs, you want a very thick sauce. Follow Mario Batali’s recipe (below) exactly, but leave out the herbs. Or not. It’ll be fine.
- Once they’re done cooking, remove the ribs from the pan. Place the pot with the braising liquid on a burner and turn the heat on high. Cook this down until thickened. Get a large wooden spoon or potato masher to get the vegetables into the sauce. Add ¼ cup of Korean barbecue sauce and stir. Taste. Add more until you’re happy.
- Shred the short ribs and add to the sauce.
- In a griddle or cast iron skillet on medium-high heat, place a buttered slice of brioche bread. Work with determination. Spread some of the pimento cheese on the bread. Don’t be stingy. Spread with abandon. Then use a slotted spoon or tongs to add a layer of the short ribs. This sandwich is full of generosity, so meet its intent with your own grace. Top with another slice of buttered brioche.
And I think you know how to make a grilled cheese, so take it from here, Ace.
Serve with a side of pickles.
Or better yet, pickled okra.
Recipe | Hugh Acheson's glorious Pimento Cheese + Mario Batali's Short Ribs + some premade Korean barbecue sauce
